Dvigrad

Dvigrad is a medieval hill town in Istria, inland from the Lim channel near Kanfanar, abandoned centuries ago and left to settle quietly into its own walls. Walking in, you pass the standing church of Sveta Sofija and then a tumble of roofless houses along a single stone street, framed by ivy and the Istrian hills.

The town was inhabited from late antiquity, but plague, malaria and the fighting of the Uskok War emptied it through the 17th century, until the last families finally left. Unlike many ruins, Dvigrad was never rebuilt or paved over, so its medieval street plan survives intact, which is rare.

Unlike paid, fenced ruins, Dvigrad is open and free to wander. That freedom is also its vulnerability; the walls are fragile, so step carefully, do not climb, and leave everything as you find it. Combine it with the Lim channel or the hill towns of central Istria for a quiet half-day away from the coast.

For photographers, late afternoon light raking across the church facade is the shot, and a wide lens does justice to the street. Arrive early or late to have it to yourself.

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